Paint your Wagon

[Wheeledbeast]

[DasLandRoverMan]

Comic genius my friend.

[Wheeledbeast]

Look what father christmas brought me

[DasLandRoverMan]

Praise *insert supernatural being of choice*!!!

Some sort of sense prevails!!!

[Wheeledbeast]

Finally got the new fuel Filler assembly mounted under the rear floor . I have used an 88” filler assembly and made a new out rigger for it to fit into. It is mounted under the rear floor and will eventually have some sort of “Cat flap” to allow you to access it from the load bed.



The new out rigger is bolted in place and seems fairly secure. (If I have problems with it in future there is lots of access from below to run a line of weld around to secure it). I measured everything carefully and got it all lined up before I fitted the rubbers, However getting the rubber on was a massive battle involving gallons of WD-40 and a lot of swearing .
Next job is to move the fuel pump and plumb in the outgoing half of the new tank.

[Wheeledbeast]

Couple of other modifications this week. I have moved the fuel pump to apposition above the rear axel. This puts the pump closer to the new rear tank. Rather annoyingly the old fuel pipe was about 6 inches too short and had to be replaced.



I have also picked up a ceramic 12V demister fan from Maplins. It was only a tenner, so I have sprayed it up to match the wiper motor. It does a good job of clearing the drivers screen before the engine has warmed up, I have not tried it against ice yet though.
Then a quick one to please Das, I finally fitted the new radiator badge.

[1960SeriesII]

Good job with the plumbing - and the badge looks much better

[Wheeledbeast]

I went out yesterday in search of the promised snow. I could not find any, but I did encounter some Ice and that led to some problems . I was going up an ice covered bank when I started to spin the rear wheel. Just what you would expect. So I tried to pop the yellow knob into 4WD. It did not seem to work. So I used the red knob in to low box. When the wheels started to spin the transfer box jumped into neutral. I eventually made it up the hill by holding the red knob back then I decided it was best to turn round go home .

When I got home it seems that the transfer box was now stuck in 4WD. I had a look through the transfer box cover, it seems that someone has filled my transfer box with condensed milk . The reason for jumping out of low range seemed to be the selector fork being too far back on the shaft. I moved it forward slightly and this allowed the spring plunger to engage in its slot on the shaft hopefully that will fix that one .



I have changed the milk in the transfer box for oil( see left/right photo) and I have removed the front prop shaft as a temporary measure, but it is still stuck in 4WD. Has anyone got any ideas about how I can fix the 4WD problem I hope it is not going to be a gear box out job

[Wheeledbeast]

Land rover series IIA stuck in four wheel drive. ( it's a bit like War an Peace this )
I have (I think) fixed the 4WD problem I was having with the forward control. I thought I would just summarise the way it works and the way I fixed it. (apologies if this is teaching granny to suck eggs, but I thought someone might find it useful ).

The way it works.
The 4WD mechanism is in front of the transfer box parallel with the main gear box. It has the output flange for the front prop shaft on the front of it and directly above the flange three control rods and a locking pin.
Inside the case the front prop output flange is connected to a dog clutch that operates a little bit like a socket on a bolt head. If you imagine the output shaft is the bolt and the ratchet/socket are the transfer box. Push the socket over the bolt and you have four wheel drive, pull it back and the front prop can free wheel. (It is actually a geared dog though and not a hexagon like on a bolt ). The system is operated by the control rods/shaft that stick out the front of the casing. The control rods are spring operated and a constantly trying to push the selector into 4WD.
There is a cover over two of the control rods (you need to remove it if you want to see them). Looking at the arrows in the picture. The Green arrow points to the 4WD selector shaft. If it sticks a long way out of the case you are in 4WD if it only just sticks out you are in 2WD.( remember it is trying to spring into 4wd all the time).
The red arrow is the high low ratio selector shaft (red knob), forwards High ratio back low ratio. The amber arrow is pointing to the 4WD lever assembly (yellow knob). The Blue arrow is pointing to the 4WD pivot shaft. Notice that this shaft is pushed backwards by a long bolt attached to the High low selector shaft. (I think that later models did not have this assembly).
Green shaft forwards and you are in 4WD green shaft back 2WD. Push the blue pivot shaft back and it will push the green shaft back and put you in 2WD. The blue shaft has a hole in it, if you drop the pin (like a bent tent peg in the RHS picture or with the R clip through it on the amber in the LHS picture) through the hole it will hold the box in 2WD…. If you pull out the pin, say by pressing the yellow knob, green and blue will spring forward and you are in 4WD.
Finally inside the box is a pivot (attached to the blue pivot shaft) that has an important function. When you select low ratio by pushing red shaft back, the blue pivot shaft is also pushed back (the amount of push can be adjusted by the long bolt on the red shaft). This lets the pin drop into the blue shaft (yellow lever pops up) so you are back in 2WD…… but because the pivot has moved inside the box the green lever is still forwards so you are actually in 4WD. Go back into high range however and the pivot will turn back, green is pushed back, the locking pin holds blue back and you go back into 2WD.

My problems.
The cover you can see in the photos was badly bent . Two of the bolts that hold it in place where sheared off. The cover was full of dirt and the control shafts were all rusty . Firstly I tried to straighten and clean the cover. I managed to remove the broken studs from the gear box casing by mig welding big lumps on to them than turning them out with mole grips, took some time to get the lumps strong enough to turn, but it did work. (I replaced them with ¼ Whitworth cap screws that were well greased up before they went into the alloy, this was as close as I could get to the originals.)
I cleaned up all the selector shafts and the locking pin with emery paper and worked them until they would move freely. I had to spend some time on the locking pin (amber). This pin needs to slide easily, as it is only moved by gravity and the spring on the yellow knob. I also found that the cover was pulling on this pin making it hard to operate, so I had to file out the hole in the cover.
Once everything was working again I filled the cover with grease and refitted it. Before I refitted the amber arm I loosened off the pushing bolt on red, selected low ratio, and then wound in the bolt half a turn at a time until the locking pin could slide freely into the blue shaft. Once I was happy everything I did up the lock nut and refitted the amber lever assembly. FC’s are also fitted with a strengthening plate for the clutch assembly which I fitted at the end( see last photo)

Note: The Cover plate is held on by the amber locking pin, the red High/low shaft and three bolts. You need to unscrew the clevis from the end of the red high low shaft, remove the amber selector arm and the locking pin then undo the three bolts. You should be able to pull the cover of the shafts.

[Wheeledbeast]

We have not had a spot the difference for some time, so here are some shots of the near side/offside of the rear axle.



Do you know what it is yet ... answers on a blank check to the usual address please.


The other news is that I have (Eventually) started on the LPG/ dual fuel conversion. Step one is to build a frame to support this incredibly weighty tank.



I have decided that unlike Mr Wit ( who makes his own gas) I shall be using shop bought gas. I am able to make my own, but im not sure how to get it into the tank.